Eat Around the Pitt is a Transplant's View of Pittsburgh and Food.
In the Kitchen: May 2008 Archives
May 28, 2008

A Texas Twist

Posted by Kathryn @ 5:56 PM

operacakesmall.JPGWhen I can take food memories and wrap them into a baked good I am at home all over again. Once again the Daring Bakers have served up a delicious challenge. I want to thank Lis and Ivonne along with Fran of the blog Apples Peaches Pumpkin Pie and Shea of the blog Whiskful for co-hosting the challenge. To make it exciting the recipe relies on nuts, which in my household, I am the only indulger. As a result I was really happy to have an excuse to use copious quantities!

Now I am not usually a fussy person, I lack artistic talent and fear those things that cry for perfection, this is clear by the recipes I usually highlight on the blog usually. Belonging to Daring Bakers is intended to help me stretch my repertoire and try a few techniques I would normally avoid. The May challenge is no exception. It is a decidedly light (only in color) take on a classic opera cake.

I decided to take on all of the elements of this recipe including the optional mousse. It was a great way to practice a variety of cake toppings. As I am not the largest fan of icing it let me try a variety and gave me some ideas on how to improve some of my existing favorites. Plus, now as a result of a little bit of leftovers I have found a divine spread for my favorite buttermilk raisin bran muffins, the buttercream recipe. It was simply the best combination (probably because of the sheer quantity of butter incorporated in the recipe!) Each month though I need to put my own touch on the challenge and this time around I decided to forgo the traditional almond meal and take it to Texas with pecans. I was a little worried that since they are softer and oilier that this could pose a problem, but in the end the result was very nice. Now to go with pecans, i love two things cayenne pepper or cinnamon. Cayenne pepper was too much of a departure for this particular cake, but cinnamon added a nice round flavor to the pecan goodness.

So the cake was a total hit at work. I loved certain elements particularly the joconde and the buttercream (which much like Natalie Dupree's spice cake with a coffee butter cream relies on so much butter that the sugar is much less noticeable). I will probably skip the glaze in future opera-like cakes. White chocolate in that large of quantity seems cloying (especially when you have a mousse and glaze) I think I would prefer the traditional less sweet dark chocolate or coffee flavors. As for the husband and sister, they would totally pass on this in the future. If you don't like nuts, then this is not the recipe for you. On to the recipe!

For the joconde

What you’ll need:

•2 12½ x 15½-inch (31 x 39-cm) jelly-roll pans ( I actually used one half sheet and then one round layer cake pan instead to make two separate opera cakes)
•a few tablespoons of melted butter (in addition to what’s called for in the ingredients’ list) and a brush (to grease the pans)
•parchment paper
•a whisk and a paddle attachment for a stand mixer or for a handheld mixer
•two mixing bowls

Ingredients:

6 large egg whites, at room temperature
2 tbsp. (30 grams) granulated sugar
2 cups (225 grams) pecans
2 cups icing sugar, sifted
1-2 tablespoons of cinnamon
6 large eggs
½ cup (70 grams) all-purpose flour
3 tbsp. (1½ ounces; 45 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1.Divide the oven into thirds by positioning a rack in the upper third of the oven and the lower third of the oven.

2.Preheat the oven to 425◦F. (220◦C).

3.Line two 12½ x 15½- inch (31 x 39-cm) jelly-roll pans with parchment paper and brush with melted butter.

4. In a food processor pulse pecans with about 1 half of flour. Do this slowly and do not let the pecans turn into a paste.

5.In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or using a handheld mixer), beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Add the granulated sugar and beat until the peaks are stiff and glossy. If you do not have another mixer bowl, gently scrape the meringue into another bowl and set aside.

6. Set the egg whites aside. Attach the paddle attachment to the stand mixer (or using a handheld mixer again) and beat the almonds, icing sugar and eggs on medium speed until light and voluminous, about 3 minutes.

7.Add the remaining flour and beat on low speed until the flour is just combined (be very careful not to overmix here!!!).

8.Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the meringue into the almond mixture and then fold in the melted butter. (Don't forget the butter! I almost did and with this many steps to a cake it will make you cry if you have to start something over) Divide the batter between the pans and spread it evenly to cover the entire surface of each pan.

9.Bake the cake layers until they are lightly browned and just springy to the touch. This could take anywhere from 5 to 9 minutes depending on your oven. Place one jelly-roll pan in the middle of the oven and the second jelly-roll pan in the bottom third of the oven.

10.Put the pans on a heatproof counter and run a sharp knife along the edges of the cake to loosen it from the pan. Cover each with a sheet of parchment or wax paper, turn the pans over, and unmold.

11.Carefully peel away the parchment, then turn the parchment over and use it to cover the cakes. Let the cakes cool to room temperature.

For the syrup- can be made in advance

½ cup (125 grams) water
⅓ cup (65 grams) granulated sugar
1 to 2 tbsp. of honey

1.Stir all the syrup ingredients together in the saucepan and bring to a boil.

2.Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.

For the buttercream

2 cups (200 grams) granulated sugar
1/2 cup (60 grams) water
1-2 tsp. cinnamon
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
1¾ cups unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 tablespoon vanilla

1.Combine the sugar, water and cinnamon in a small saucepan and warm over medium heat just until the sugar dissolves.

2.Continue to cook, without stirring, until the syrup reaches 225◦F (107◦C)

3.While the syrup is heating, begin whisking the egg and egg yolk at high speed in the bowl of your mixer using the whisk attachment. Whisk them until they are pale and foamy.

4.When the sugar syrup reaches the correct temperature and you remove it from the heat, reduce the mixer speed to low speed and begin slowly (very slowly) pouring the syrup down the side of the bowl being very careful not to splatter the syrup into the path of the whisk attachment.

5.Raise the speed to medium-high and continue beating until the eggs are thick and satiny and the mixture is cool to the touch (about 5 minutes or so).

6.With the mixer on medium speed, begin adding in two-tablespoon chunks of butter. When all the butter has been incorporated, raise the mixer speed to high and beat until the buttercream is thick and shiny.

7.Add Vanilla and mix to incorporate

9.Refrigerate the buttercream, stirring it often, until it’s set enough (firm enough) to spread when topped with a layer of cake (about 20 minutes).

For the white chocolate ganache/mousse (this step is optional )
Ingredients:

7 ounces white chocolate
1 cup plus 3 tbsp. heavy cream (35% cream)
1 tbsp. liqueur - I chose Bailey's but next time I would skip this... added one too many flavor profiles for my taste

1.Melt the white chocolate and the 3 tbsp. of heavy cream in a small saucepan.
2.Stir to ensure that it’s smooth and that the chocolate is melted. Add the tablespoon of liqueur to the chocolate and stir. Set aside to cool completely.
3.In the bowl of a stand mixer, whip the remaining 1 cup of heavy cream until soft peaks form.
4.Gently fold the whipped cream into the cooled chocolate to form a mousse.
5.If it’s too thin, refrigerate it for a bit until it’s spreadable.
6.If you’re not going to use it right away, refrigerate until you’re ready to use.

For the glaze- Don't make this ahead of time, better wait for assembly- This makes a lot you may want to make just 1/2 or 3/4 of this amount unless you have another purpose for the glaze


What you’ll need:

•a small saucepan or double boiler

Ingredients:

14 ounces white chocolate, coarsely chopped
½ cup heavy cream (35% cream)
1 tsp cinnamon

1.Melt the white chocolate with the heavy cream. Add cinnamon. Whisk the mixture gently until smooth.
2.Let cool for 10 minutes and then pour over the chilled cake. Using a long metal cake spatula, smooth out into an even layer.
3.Place the cake into the refrigerator for 30 minutes to set.

Assembling the Opéra Cake

(Note: The finished cake should be served slightly chilled. If it is cold the buttercream will be very hard and not reveal its splendid satiny texture).

Line a baking sheet with parchment or wax paper.

Working with one sheet of cake at a time, cut and trim each sheet so that you have two pieces (from each cake so you’ll have four pieces in total): one 10-inch (25-cm) square and one 10 x 5-inch (25 x 12½-cm) rectangle.

Step A (if using buttercream only and not making the ganache/mousse):

Place one square of cake on the baking sheet and moisten it gently with the flavoured syrup.

Spread about one-third of the buttercream over this layer.

Top with the two rectangular pieces of cake, placing them side by side to form a square. Moisten these pieces with the flavoured syrup.

Spread another third of the buttercream on the cake and then top with the third square of joconde. Use the remaining syrup to wet the joconde. Spread the remaining buttercream on top of the final layer of joconde and then refrigerate until very firm (at least half an hour).

Make the glaze and after it has cooled, pour/spread it over the top of the chilled cake. Refrigerate the cake again to set the glaze.

Serve the cake slightly chilled. This recipe will yield approximately 20 servings.

Step B (if making the ganache/mousse):

Place one square of cake on the baking sheet and moisten it gently with the flavoured syrup.

Spread about three-quarters of the buttercream over this layer.

Top with the two rectangular pieces of cake, placing them side by side to form a square. Moisten these pieces with the flavoured syrup.

Spread the remaining buttercream on the cake and then top with the third square of joconde. Use the remaining syrup to wet the joconde and then refrigerate until very firm (at least half an hour).

Prepare the ganache/mousse (if you haven’t already) and then spread it on the top of the last layer of the joconde. Refrigerate for at least two to three hours to give the ganache/mousse the opportunity to firm up.

Make the glaze and after it has cooled, pour/spread it over the top of the chilled cake. Refrigerate the cake again to set the glaze.

Serve the cake slightly chilled. This recipe will yield approximately 20 servings.

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May 10, 2008

It's What's For Dinner

Posted by The Husband @ 5:28 PM

mushroomsteak.jpg As most husbands are wont to do when the weather turns nice, I recently dusted off the grill from its time in storage (the biggest downside of condo living: laws against grills on porches). To kick off the true grilling season -- winter may find me tossing something onto the fire on decent days -- I started with this:

Mushroom & Horseradish Stuffed Steaks

For the steak I chose a couple of gorgeous dry-aged New York strips. The stuffing itself consists of:

  • 1.5 cups sliced fresh mushrooms (regular buttons will do)
  • 0.5 cup chopped onion
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 tblsp butter
  • 2 tblsp prepared horseradish
  • Salt, pepper, Worcestershire sauce

Toss the 'shrooms, onion, garlic and butter into a saucepan and cook until the onions are tender. Then add in the horsey-sauce, with salt and pepper to taste. I added the Worcestershire at this point, though you could save it for more of a sauce at the end by melting a bit more butter and combining the two towards the end.

For the steaks, the usual fat-trimming comes first. Then choose a side to slit open, opening it up more than halfway. What you want is a pocket deep enough to hold stuffing, but still enough connection to hold together well for flipping. (You'll note from the picture that I ended up using toothpicks to keep the pocket closed. Just remember to remove them before eating!)

While I tend to use a lot of charcoal, we actually picked up some wood-chunks (not the kind to smoke meat with). I wasn't sure how hot these get or how they last, so I ended up having a hotter fire than I wanted, but the goal is to have about medium heat. Place directly over the heat source, flipping only once, and keeping it on each side for around 10 minutes for medium-rare, up to 14 minutes for closer to well done.

We served this with potatoes and salad. Turned out absolutely wonderfully. The meat was tender, juicy, and had a nice tang from the horseradish. Paired with a bottle of 2003 Trefethen Cabernet Sauvignon it turned out to be one of the better things to come off my grill.

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May 1, 2008

Cheese and more cheese...

Posted by Kathryn @ 9:10 AM

cheesepoundcakesmall.JPGSo my good friend Toni turned me on to this recipe. It is completely delicious and rather addictive. The cream cheese gives it a cheesecake like flavor, but a texture that my husband adores. He is crazy for pound cake... I have to hide it or freeze it to make sure that it sticks around for guests.

CREAM CHEESE POUND CAKE

1 cup margarine (2 sticks)
½ cup butter softened
1 8 oz. pkg. cream cheese, softened
3 cups sugar
Dash of salt
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tsp. lemon extract
6 large eggs
3 cups sifted all purpose flour

Cream together margarine, butter, cream cheese and sugar. Add salt and flavorings. Add eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Add flour and mix well. Pour batter into a greased and sugared (using flour works too) 10-inch tube or bundt pan. Place pan in a COLD oven. Set temperature for 325 degrees. Bake for 1-1/2 hours or until done. Cool in pan.

I ended up putting it in two loaf pans because I threw out my bundt pan after the last three cakes stuck so badly they could not be presented to those outside of the immediate family... it worked just fine. It is better on the underbaked side than overbaked, so if you feel like you should take it out... go with it... it will be fine. The crust is absolutely heavenly... especially if you sugar the pan.. I swear Toni has been divinely inspired. I personally am not a huge lemon and cheese fan, so I may go with a different flavor in the future, but it does leave a nice bright flavor.